A new clinical study has revealed a new potential of Monteloeder’s botanical formulation Zeropollution to support scalp health under environmental stress. The four-botanical blend was shown to provide significant relief to individuals with sensitive scalps and living in densely polluted urban areas.
The results have extended the ingredient’s use beyond facial skin health, positioning it within the emerging health category of skinification. This trend is defined as the integration of commonly known skin care actives into other categories, such as hair care, by starting at the root and offering a more holistic solution to scalp concerns.
Zeropollution is a combination of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), olive leaves (Olea europaea), lemon verbena (Lippia citriodora), and Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica) botanical extracts. The nutricosmetic aims at supporting the skin’s resilience to the harmful effects environmental factors via an “inside-out” approach.
According to World Health Organization (WHO) estimates, nearly the entire global population (99%) breathes air that exceeds WHO guideline limits on air pollution exposure. Only seven countries meet the WHO recommendation for annual particular matter levels.
Head and shoulders above
Healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp. Research indicates that people living in highly polluted areas have altered sebum composition, which affects the scalp’s ability to retain moisture and protect against environmental insults.
As the primary line of defense, the skin — including the scalp — is often the first to be compromised by daily exposure to common air pollutants, including particulate matter (PM), smoking, and UV radiation. These can impact the skin on multiple levels. Pollution alters the skin barrier and microflora and increases reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, thus damaging cell membranes. This causes clogged hair follicles and disrupts the natural balance of oils, making it difficult for hair to thrive. These insults lead to scalp irritation, redness, dandruff, and changes to hair texture.
The research
The 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was led by Vincenzo Nobile, PhD, and was published in the Aug 2024 issue of Cosmetics. The trial investigated the real-world effectiveness of Zeropollution on various physiological parameters of the skin and scalp in 66 women residing in a highly urbanized area The participants received either a 250mg gel capsule of Zeropollution or a placebo daily.
Positive results among the Zeropollution group were recorded just four weeks into the study. By the end of the three-month evaluation period, key improvements included a nearly 22% increase in skin antioxidant capacity, enhanced skin moisturisation, a 25% boost in skin radiance, along, and measurable reductions in wrinkle depth and skin oiliness. In addition, scalp moisturisation improved by more than 14%, with noted reductions in skin moisture loss. Scalp sebum growth diminished by 16%. In addition, 71% of participants with scalp sensitivity experienced reduced redness.
“Zeropollution is a polyphenol-rich blend of natural botanicals with dual-action benefits,” explained Nuria Caturla, PhD, Monteloeder’s chief R&D officer. “It nourishes and rejuvenates both your skin and scalp, helping to protect against environmental stressors while enhancing overall skin and scalp health. The result is a refreshed and revitalized appearance. This beauty-from-within formula also emerges as a highly relevant solution to the current trend of skinification.”
Skinification is gaining popularity as consumers realize the importance of treating the scalp with the same care as facial skin. It is driven by the growing demand for multifunctional products by consumers who seek an all-in-one solution.
“Zeropollution was crafted based on evidence that consuming a diverse range of antioxidants is more effective than a high dose of a single antioxidant,” noted Caturla. “This is ascribed to their complementary activity. The selection of these botanicals followed an extensive review of anecdotal and scientific literature, further validated through in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical testing to ensure the formula’s effectiveness.”
Skin health starts beneath the surface
A previous study of skin biopsies from persons exposed to diesel engine exhaust showed that rosemary leaf particles effectively reduced inflammatory responses, demonstrating the botanical’s potential to mitigate the effects of pollution on skin. Also, the verbascosides present in lemon verbena have been proven to offer a range of benefits, including antioxidant skin brightening properties. Sophora Japonica, a renowned plant in traditional chinese medicine, is rich in quercetin, with skin-soothing and purported anti-ageing benefits. Olive polyphenols have demonstrated a direct antioxidant effect on skin.
“This clinical study expands on the the product’s applicability to scalp health discovered in a previous lab-based study,” noted Marcos López, US sales director for Monteloeder. “Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the link between hair quality and scalp health. Today’s informed consumers seek products that naturally soothe, hydrate, and enhance the scalp to alleviate common issues such as dandruff, itchiness, oiliness, and dryness, as well as to enhance hair vibrancy. This study confirms that the Zeropollution® nutricosmetic goes beyond bare skin health to address scalp concerns as well.”
Zeropollution was the winner of the NutraIngredients USA Ingredient of the Year award in the beauty-from-within category for 2023 and 2024. Earlier this year, a preclinical study revealed several mechanisms of action underlying the protective effect of Zeropollution on the skin against external aggressors. In addition to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, one of the key mechanisms discovered was its ability to inhibit the overactivation of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), a biological pathway of the pollutant stress response that causes inflammation and skin damage.
